Maybe I’m bad at geography but before taking a day trip to the Atlas Mountains I never would have guessed that Morocco, or anywhere in Africa for that matter, received snow. The entire day was a big pleasant surprise, really.

Our awesome guide, Noureddine, picked us up from our riad and off we went leaving the crazy streets of the Medina behind us. An hour or so later we entered the first valley and got our first glimpse into the varying color and texture of the mountains – they literally change every 100 yards. Because of this, each Berber village has its own distinct look since they use whatever soil and materials are on their mountain side to build their homes. Isn’t it amazing how entire villages blend into the natural curves of the land?

Mid-route were offered sweet mint tea and light snacks at a Berber home that had one of the most serene views I have ever seen. We then dropped our host off at a market in another village and (thankfully) our guides decided that it would be a good idea to join him. I was thrilled! Never mind that the markets are only male (the men do the shopping in these towns) or that it was a total mud fest due to recent rains – this was the REAL deal. I’m talking makeshift tents, tables, and weighing scales that looked as ancient as the culture. It was awesome.

After the market we drove higher up into the mountains, saw our first winter snow (woo!), and  then stopped for lunch at a roadside cafe. The other car we were with went on to a restaurant in a more commercial area but this was definitely more our style. Of course it helped to have Noureddine with us to ensure that the food was properly cooked and such. We then headed back to Marrakech but not before stopping at an argan oil cosmetics cooperative store. We bought a few things and even learned a bit about how the oil is extracted from the argan nut. Let me tell ya, it is hard work!

I left the cooperative feeling super satisfied and inspired as it was the perfect end to a very real day. I learned that it’s one thing look at Berber rugs in the souks of the Medina and it’s another to get out of town and see where and how Berbers live. I’m so thankful to our airport driver, Hakim, for suggesting we do it and to our guide/driver Nourredine whose expert knowledge and love of the area made the day such a special experience.

When you’re not busy dodging motorcycles and donkeys there are plenty of design details to catch your attention in Marrakech’s Medina. I was fascinated by the intricate carvings on both wood and stone, the pretty pastels of the buildings, the bright bold colors in the souks, and the rough and smooth texture pairings on the walls. I peeked into a few craftsman workshops near our riad to see how they use stencils to carve the repeating designs – what a work of art!

Any design details or colors catch your eye?

“A mix of tradition and modern life” was how our Atlas Mountains guide, Noureddine described Marrakech. We were instantly welcome by the more modern side at the airport with some of the most beautiful geometric beams and windows I have ever seen. We met our driver, Hakim, and made the twenty minute drive into the Old City, or the Medina, where our riad was located. Before entering the Medina’s thick and soothing pastel pink wall, Hakim pointed out the “New City” next door where we could find modern restaurants and high end stores like Gucci. We playfully informed him that we didn’t come here to shop at Gucci and dine on fancy food. He nodded in approval and went on to tell us about day excursions out to the Atlas Mountains where the Berber villages are. Hakim is Berber so he was quick, yet still respectful, to say that the Medina is touristy and we would do well to get out of the city to see the real Morocco.

With that bit of information in our back pocket we entered the wall of the Medina and were greeted by the Koutoubia Mosque – Morocco’s Eiffel Tower. It was stunning and the fact that it’s seven centuries old makes it a world wonder. Moving past the mosque we were in local trade streets, no tourists in sight but lots of motorcyclists and donkeys carrying heavy loads behind them. My first reaction was “yes, i love this!” but then it quickly turned to a “wtf?” when we arrived at our final destination. Paved roads had ceased three turns prior, the corner was littered with trash (no dumpsters I guess?) and there was a dog laying in a pile of torn up styrofoam looking totally dead. A group of neighborhood boys were playing a game of football (soccer) next to it and didn’t seem to think anything was wrong. Hakim didn’t seemed phased either so we carried on and met our riad host, Sadiq. He was ALL smiles and the most welcoming. The exterior of the riad didn’t look like much (it’s next to a cement brick maker) but as soon as we walked inside it was like being in a completely different world. It was gorgeous and peaceful and had a great balance of traditional and modern style. I later learned that traditional riads (mansions with open central courtyards or gardens) were designed with very few exterior windows and embellishments to keep with the modesty and privacy of the Muslim culture. Our room was so simple and beautiful that I had completely forgotten about the dead dog by that point.

After settling in we decided to venture out and see if we could make our way to the main square, Jemma el Fnaa, with the directions Sadiq had given us. It was Friday so the streets and shops were very quiet and the grey skies above made everything feel a bit moody. We zigzagged through the landmarks that Sadiq said would indicate that we were on the right path and eventually found ourselves in the middle of the infamous souks. Before traveling I had read about their notorious aggressiveness and I was determined to not let them (the souks) get the best of me. I quickly realized that it was going to be a problem. I wanted to stop at every shop and browse through all of the colorful, brassy, leathery treasures and intricate textiles. I’ve never wanted to shop more than I did there but I simultaneously had never felt more uncomfortable doing so. The first time I looked at something and then decided to pass, the guy looked at me like I had killed his mother. The rest of the time when we chose to ignore the sales calls (literally coming from every single vendor at the same time “look at my shop!” “looking is free!”) we’d get disgruntled comments as soon as they realized that we weren’t stopping. Finally we decided to give a shop a chance because I wanted to try some leather slippers on. I learned a BIG lesson here, people – I tried them on and asked for my size BEFORE asking what the price was. Ultimately, the seller didn’t want to bring the price down to what I was willing to pay (you’re supposed to haggle, which I hate) so I said “okay, no thank you” Immediately after I gave my (polite) decline he shooed us away with his hands and yelled “get out of my shop! poor people, get out!” and then he began to spit at us! My heart was pounding and Joe and I looked at each other like, “seriously?!? are we getting spat at right now?!?”  Needless to say, all of those combined incidents left us feeling less than lovey towards “the way of the souks”.

I was really bothered by the day’s experience all night and realized that yes, that one guy was a total dick but also, I had approached the entire afternoon with a guard because of what I had read online. I was receiving the energy that I was giving off. So, for the rest of the trip I made the conscious decision to have a more positive (and open) attitude, to get comfortable saying “no thank you” with a smile, and to let whatever nasty things were said just roll off my back. I wasn’t going to let them (or myself) ruin experiencing a city/country that I’ve always dreamt about.

The next day we took Hakim’s advice and booked a day-trip to the Atlas Mountains through our riad. I’ll share more about it later but it was exactly what we needed to cool down from the previous day. It was beeeuuutttiffffuulll. We saw parts of Morocco that we never would have imagined existed (Joe kept thinking we were in the Colorado Rockies) and spent hours learning about local cultures and landscapes from our awesome guide, Noureddine.

We returned to the riad that afternoon with a new found sense of appreciation and energy to take on the Medina once again. Night time in the square was a totally new experience – restaurants pop up out of nowhere and performers rally crowds that were nonexistent just a few hours before. Again, we felt the aggressiveness of the area as pitchmen approached us every several steps to convince us to dine with them. Other cultures and cities have this but it’s at another level here – like, they will walk with you for two minutes saying anything they can to convince you. Joe got called “skinny” and I got “harry potter” haha. Eventually we let one guy convince us to sit down and we had a GREAT meal and thoroughly enjoyed the ambiance. It was a much better day/night than the first.

Sunday, our last day, was gorgeously sunny and with bright blue skies above, everything below it looked much more enchanting. I think the people who fall in love with Marrakech in an instant visit in the summer time – it truly does feel like a different place when it’s not gloomy and cold. We only had a few hours before our flight so instead of trying to cram in a palace or museum visit we opted to give shopping another go. I’m glad we did because we experienced much more pleasant vendors who didn’t curse us if we politely declined and by that time, we had mastered not getting run over by motorcycles and donkeys when walking in the narrow walkways, or what they call streets. I was fully enjoying myself and everything around me – I felt like me again, the me that likes that sort of crazy, foreign, adventure and says “I love this!” at the site of a donkey. Perhaps it was my conscious attitude shift or everyone really is more friendly on a warm and busy Sunday morning. Either way, I’m so happy that I finally came around to enjoying Marrakech. Despite it’s faults it’s a very interesting and inspiring place to visit. Oh, and that dog wasn’t dead after all…that’s just the way dogs do it in Marrakech. They must be conditioned to the laying dead-style (and hardly breathing?) due to the desert heat. Poor things.

And because I didn’t write enough ;) … here are a few tips for having a rosy experience while not forgetting to take off your rainbow colored glasses…

• expect to be asked for payment if you take a photo of a craftsman at work, folk costume personality, or performer without asking. even if you ask, they will ask for payment first.

• shop keepers in the souks will expect to be haggled with on the price so start by asking about a larger object to get an idea of their price range and then go for the smaller item you really want.

• do not accept any offers to help get you somewhere if you are lost. there are plenty of kids and young men who will casually offer to show you something like “leather market, only today” or help if you are lost. they WILL demand payment afterwards. we were approached a lot but we knew better having read horror stories. ff you need directions, go into a store where someone can’t simply leave their post to “guide” you there.

• it seemed like locals do not like to have their photograph taken so be mindful of where/how you point you camera in the instance that they may be in your shot.

• forget about “standing and soaking it all in” while in the square – some performer or shop person will approach you before you get a moment to yourself. kudos if you manage it!

Hi everyone, I hope you had a fantastic weekend! We got back into London last night so I wasn’t able to prep a Marrakech roundup for this AM. There are definitely lots of photos (and insights) to share so I’ll see you back here later.

Oh and that wave? Yeah, that wasn’t for us. If it was it probably would have been followed by a request/demand for money. Lots to share with you indeed :)

Who says you need a full week or two to do something fun? We used to go to Palm Springs for our quick getaways but now we’re headed to a new oasis and I couldn’t be more excited! I won’t let the fact that the forecast calls for cloudy skies and rain dampen my spirit – I’m sure the colors, flavors, and lively market squares will keep me smiling no matter what.

Can’t wait to capture all of the details and share them with you next week. Until then have a wonderful weekend!

Here are this week’s three rad links…

• do you nerd out over design freebies? if so, these handy icons will be your godsend via SimpleSong

• my girl Meg and her non-profit Art Feeds were given an amazing gift on abc’s Extreme Home Makeover. so proud of her!

• dream big. don’t mind if i do. loved this post by Rena Tom for Poppytalk

….and because i’ve got to plug my own thangs too: i added a few new vintage goodies to the shop. enjoy!

image: colorful doors near columbia road, london

Tune Yards – Riot Riot

Joe took this photo during a past trip to La Alhambra in Spain but I’m hoping to see something like it this weekend when we visit Marrakech (!!!!!). I’m still pinching myself at the thought of it. Morocco has been a dream destination for as long as I can remember so when we booked the flights and riad I felt like doing this all over again. Can you believe that it’s only 3.5 hours away on a direct flight from London? Absolutely insane.

Have any of you been to Marrakech or heard of any good tips for visiting, dining, and shopping? One thing I know for sure is that I’m going to be on the hunt for rugs like this or with patterns and textures like this. What would be on your shopping list? Lanterns, textiles, spices, maybe even a charmed snake?

Remember the pillowcase I picked up here? Well now we’re enjoying it as a new set of napkins – just in time to complement my new cooking skills!

I love upcycled projects like this, especially when they’re as easy as one two three (cut, iron, sew – oh and of course pre-wash so make that four).

Buen provecho!

The most formal training I’d ever had in cooking was in seventh grade during my home economics class where we learned how to make pancakes and fry an egg. Something obviously didn’t stick because it took fifteen years to become interested in taking another food related course.

This past weekend I spent the day at the new lab kitchen of London Cuisine in Southwark. I found them online during the Christmas break after getting frustrated about not understanding the basics. Like, why does my oil always burn? What does all that steam mean – good or bad? I know it may sounds ridiculous to you long-time chefs but that’s where I was at. Totally clueless. While trial and error is often the best way to learn new things, I didn’t love that approach when food was involved. Getting things wrong kept resulting in a big wast of money and leaving us with a bowl of cereal for dinner. So, the way I looked at it was this one time investment in a class would save us money in the long run by giving me the confidence to cook well and more often at home … Joe can’t do it all of the time! Actually, I was perfectly fine with him doing all of the cooking but now I want in.

The class was called “Cooking For Blokes” but of course, ladies are welcome. It was a small group of five and the men who were there had been given the class as a Christmas gift.  We started at 10am and had two separate cooking sessions with detailed instructions and demonstrations before each one. It was a nice surprise to realize that we’d be making actual dishes and not simply learning to boil water! Those basics and principles were taught, however, through the preparation of each dish and open Q&A’s throughout the day. We made nine items ranging from parmesan biscotti to french potato soup but my personal favorites were the neapolitan peasant pasta, smoked mackerel and herb fishcakes, and mediterranean tabelleh. Everything was super easy to prepare and to cook but what made all of the difference was understanding the methods to achieve the best consistency, texture, and get the most flavor.

Here are some of the tips I learned…

• never put oil into a cold pan. to get the most out of your oil before it reaches its smoking point you should always heat the pan first, add any high moisture ingredients and then add your oil. otherwise you waste the oil’s lifespan and effectiveness for flavor.

• always add dry herbs last and cruch/rub in fingers before doing so to release essential oils.

• there’s no need to add oil to water when boiling pasta nor after the pasta has been drained. instead, drain the pasta and immediately run cold water over it to stop it from cooking. then place back in dry pot to keep warm.

• salt burns before fat so unsalted butter is best when cooking with it.

• flour should be high in protein for the most flavor. supermarket brands are often low on this so it’s best to compare when shopping.

• the thinner the cucumber the better because the wider they get, the more water content they have (less flavorfull)

• not one oil can/should do it all: olive oil is best for everyday cooking, virgin olive oil is best with indirect heat but should be not directly cooked with in a pan, and extra virgin olive – which has the lowest smoking point – should only be used for on-the-plate coating once ready to be served.

Did any of these surprise you? Agree or disagree? I’d love to hear from you seasoned cooks out there … I’ve got more confidence now but I know that there’s still a lot to learn!

Hi, how was your weekend?

As you can tell mine revolved around food so it was definitely a good one. Things kicked off with a full-day introductory cooking class where I learned practical principles of cooking and created simple yet impressive dishes. I’ll share details in a separate post but for now let’s just say that I’ve got a brand new sense of confidence to get my hands dirty in the kitchen! It’s a good thing because earlier that morning I wandered into Borough Market just as vendors had finished setting up. Everything from cheeses, meats, produce, to spices looked incredible and only served as further motivation to get creative with my homemade meals.

Lately I’ve been surprising myself every time we clean out the fridge and have to make another grocery run.  My once chore-like mentality has turned into excitement to shop for fresh items and try new ingredients and luckily for us, one of our fave neighborhoods, Marylebone, holds a great little farmer’s market on Sundays where we can do just that. It’s amazing how much more enjoyable a farmer’s market can be when you see possibilities instead of road blocks. Can’t help but think of all of the great meals I missed out on when I lived in LA and only bought fruit and fresh-baked cookies from my local ones! Oh well, better late than never, right?

I’ve spotted these tiles around our neighborhood and I’m on the hunt for more. There’s just gotta be more!

Here’s to a weekend of discovery and taking note of the interesting things around us. Enjoy!

This week’s three rad links…
• the art of making bread by Kinfolk. so beautiful and simple via EcoSalon
• okay, jennifer of I ART U has officially convinced me to book with Airbnb. check out that space!
• i love the way sharon designs her yummy instagram photos – that girl can sure cook (and sketch)